Don't ban the Uluru climb!

by Moo
(Brisbane)

I thought long and hard about whether to climb Uluru or not. My husband and I did the walk around first and were very careful not to photograph the sacred sights.

The climb was opened the next day and we decided to do it - figuring it may be our only chance.

We rationalised the decision based on the fact that the rock was here long before the Aboriginals settled in the area.

I am interested in Aboriginal culture but I am not prepared to live by their cultural beliefs, in fact, many of their dreamtime stories set in the Uluru area are forbidden to be told to people outside of their culture - so even if I desired to have a full understanding I am denied that in advance.

People who are wanting to be respectful and not climb compare climbing the rock to climbing over a church... but I see a stronger correlation with Islam and their ban on showing a picture of Mohammad, not only are followers not allowed to show the picture, NO ONE CAN.

Many people think this is unfair, including some governments.

Some people who choose not to climb Uluru seem to think they are superior to people who do choose to climb against the wishes of the local Aboriginals.

Well, I say there are very few in that number, who choose not to climb, who have any true or profound understanding of what Aboriginal culture is all about themselves, choosing to stay off the climb might make you obedient, respectful and nice but it doesn't educate you and it doesn't make you right.

In my short stay in Uluru I got the impression that Aboriginal culture had a strong series of customs based on exclusion.

They exclude the men from the womens sections and vice versa - the opposite sex may not even view the segregated areas - which is why photographs are forbidden FOR EVERYONE.

The serious and strong attempts to get everyone off the rock is an extension of the culture of exclusion that I don't live by.

The Aboriginals say it best themselves "We don't Climb" That's fine, don't climb, don't allow your families and extended community to climb - stick with your beliefs and don't impose them on everyone else on Earth.

The climb itself was amazing and I feel strongly that people should be allowed to climb if they want to.

I am horrified by the thought that it might be banned, in my opinion that will be a tragedy.

That's all I wanted to say.
Thanks for reading.

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Family of five off to Alice Springs and Uluru from Sydney

by Prinny

We (2a & 3k) plan to go from Sydney to Uluru in 2010 for three weeks. Unfortunately we are limited to school holidays so would you suggest April or July? Also is it feasible in our own 2WD? Could anyone suggest an itinery? Is 5-7 days to get to Alice Springs/Uluru from Sydney sufficient? Allowing us at least a week in Alice Springs, and then 5-7 days for the journey back? We would like to do some camping as well as stay in affordable accommodation.

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Happy to have climbed Uluru

by Martin Lutterjohann
(Phnom Penh, Cambodia)

 On top of the chain trail

Ever since I translated a story about an illegal climb of Uluru via Ngaltawata in 1976 - I think - for a mountaineering stories anthology, I wanted to climb the rock. Being an enthusiastic and ambitious mountaineer, climbing Uluru appeared a most natural thing to do for me.

When I booked one of the Uluru One Day Tours ex Alice Springs, my first priority was to select an agent that offers the climbing option. But I was warned by them beforehand that more often than not the climb would be closed. Well, I had only that one day (05 May 2009) and that one chance.

I have a sincere respect for aboriginal culture and traditions and would have had no problems accepting a "no" due to ceremonies that prevented people from climbing, but I reckoned that the weather conditions might be favourable on that day. So when our bus entered the Uluru-Kata/Tjuta NP and I saw that the rock was open (which our guides of the excellent Emu Run Tours grudgingly acknowledged), my heart jumped.

I was only worried that our guides would run the schedule in such a way and with so tight timing that the climb might not be possible or closed by the time we arrived at the base. In May days are shorter, but the one day program still follows the year round schedule of things to do. Of utmost importance is the sunset BBQ with bubbly where our guides have the ambition to be the first on site.

So, they managed to let 5 aspirants in our group loose at the start of the climb with a mere 1hr 45min to go. I hurried up the chained and steepest part of the trail and then followed the white marks to the summit. I really enjoyed the views downhill, the clean rock with not a single loose stone, the few pools of water, occasional vegetation, strange rock formations,the short friction climbs up and down the waves of rock at the plateau, I enjoyed the views to Kata Tjuta where we had done the Walpa Gorge Walk 2 hours earlier, Mount Connor and the wide country around the rock.

As I wished to also do a bit of the base walk, I was back at the start after under 90min (as the climb just was being closed ahead of schedule) and walked the base until I saw Ngaltawata, the beginning of my dream, close up. I am grateful to the traditional owners of Uluru and the land around it that they allow us to climb the mountains as they have done from time immemorial.

The chains are great, the marks are clear. The first part is easy but physically tough, fitness and concentration are required, but it is a rewarding trip. Upon reaching the upper part one tends to think the summit is near, but I knew that 2/3 of the climb still lay ahead.

Coming down the chain trail is comparatively comfortable, but that is when accidents can easily happen! So take your time and watch you every step.

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I climbed Uluru in 1984

by Lindsay Quayle
(Isle of Man UK )

I visited Ayers Rock in 1984, before it became a huge visitor centre. There was one hotel, still being finshed off, and contact for bookings was by telegraph.

I was "lucky" enough to climb it, and it is a treasured memory, but in those days I was ignorant of what the Aboriginal people felt about it. Since then I have learned more and would dearly love to visit The Rock again. However, after reading your article and what I know now, I would refrain from climbing it again as I have a lot of respect for the Aboriginal people and their culture.

I walked the Inca trail to Machu Picchu last year. You are only allowed by Permit now as the Peruvians want to preserve the trail for future generations. Perhaps the Aussie government could do the same, no more climbs, but guided tours of the rock from the ground. It is still an amazing experience to see this gigantic Rock and know its history. There is always helicopter and light aircraft flights for those who want to see the top.

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Is it right or wrong to climb Uluru? - Have a think

What is right and what's wrong? Every decent person would know the answer, those who don't, well you might have missed something important in your life. I feel sorry for your children.

Just to get the facts right, you can't compare the Central Australia history with the rest of Australia. Some of you know that the Australian history started 200 years ago, which is correct, but not for Central Australia. The story of white man living in Uluru goes back about 80 years ago, when those elderly Aborigines you see these days were still kids running around naked and looking for bush tucker, sleeping under the stars and living life.

Suddenly the invasion of white Australians came and everything changed for indigenous people. Have a think about it. How would you feel in their situation? How would you react if you had to change your complete life style you have been living for more than 60,000 years, change from today to tomorrow to suit the white men profile? Would you really trust the invaders?

I have been living here in Yulara (the resort at Ayers Rock) for more than 5 years, I'm involved in different kind of jobs including working with Anganu people. I had the privilege to learn from the direct source about their culture and how strong they are still connected to the land, respecting it and living with it.

Did any of the guys who climbed the rock ever think why actually the Aborigines don't wont you climb? Did you make the effort to ask somebody why? Have you questioned why the climb occasionally is closed? Why?

Probably not otherwise you wouldn't come up with such absurd comments of the climb being closed. With every ignorant tourist, who is in difficulty while up there climbing the rock, the rescue team has to go up there to rescue them, and they get put into great danger as well because it isn't an easy exercise. Have you ever thought about that?

You guys are not just putting yourself into danger but everybody else with a common sense as well, and you think that's ok! Maybe you're right in saying they shouldn't be closing the climb, with one condition: to ban all rescue attempts for that person who climbs and gets hurt.

In fact, everyone who climbs the rock knows that they do it at their own risk, so why putting somebody else into dangers just because of their stupid behaviour and ignorance? If they get stuck up there than that's their problem and they have to deal with it, they put themselves into that situation.

If tourists get hurt, or worse die while climbing, Anganu people mourn for their families. They feel responsible because that person got hurt or died on their land and they (Anganu) couldn't do anything. If a non-indigenous person dies, because they climbed, their soul stays within the area of the Uluru and they don't belong there, that's what Anganu belief.

Think first before you decide to climb, see the whole picture not just what you see with your eye.

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Spiritual, Magical Uluru

(Reader Submission from Australia)

A few years ago, I went to Uluru. I was on a very low budget, but I went there, thinking the climb was closed a decade or two before. I was surprised by the fact there was a choice.

I'm an earthy person, and I know the aboriginals see all who climb Uluru as disrespecting their culture. As a spiritual journey, I climbed it, but not just for the sake of climbing it. It was a very tough climb. During the climb, it made me feel human and almost like a grain of sand on a beach. Seeing, what I only believed were little stone statues created for some aboriginal activity, I found this curious and amazing.

The views from the climb and at the top, are some of the most amazing I've seen anywhere - Emptiness with tiny little mountains / rocks for over 300km & further - It was so amazing.

Being a very depressive & lonely person a lot of the time, nature helps. I believe in past lives, and at the top, looking out, I could almost feel the spirits. It was the most spiritual feeling & place I've ever been up the top. It felt like home.

When things go wrong, or I'm feeling down, I shut my eyes and go back in time to my happy place and time - the top of Uluru, to how I felt there. A feeling I've never had anywhere else at any other time in my life. It felt like home, like a belonged, like most religious people get from church or a divine miracle or something. I breathed in the fresh, spiritual air at the top for nearly one hour before heading down.

After my experience, I'm so glad I was allowed this amazing spiritual experience & opportunity. I guess it was my version of what the muslims would feel for their Mecca. It really helped me feel the same way for this rock, as the aboriginals feel for it.

For me, experiencing this climb, is one of the key things that made me feel Australia can only ever be my only home. No other country or place can ever compare to up there for me. It was like my spirit was home, like the only place I've ever belonged, just me and her - mother earth of Uluru top.

I believe I've had many past lives - one or many of which from there many generations ago. Sounds weird to most, since they've never felt this at any place or time - but if you do have that feeling of any person or place, you will know.

Sadly most people who climbed it at the same time as me, I overheard & saw many people reach the top look around 30-60seconds, saying - that's nice view, we've reached the top & head down, without a care to the spirits up there - to me that seemed more contemptuous and selfish reason, like not a care for the meaning or spirits of this amazing and spiritual place.
Do I believe Uluru climb should be closed forever? No.

I believe maybe they can limit the climb. I believe that maybe instead of free climb for themselves, those who want to climb can maybe be led up there at certain times of the day only, led by a local (preferably full blood) aboriginal person, at certain points on the way up, and at the top, the aboriginal climb leader/s can talk about uluru, the spiritual and cultural signifcance about uluru and how it is used in their legends and dreamtime.

This way, those who climb can learn and understand by the locals the meaning of this amazing place.

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Uluru frequently unanswered questions

by Roy Broff
(Melbourne)

 

Swim between the flags!

Beauty, bans, fines, nonsense & superstition... National or Aboriginal park? Aboriginal culture ? the invisible side.... Is it really worth a visit?

After nearly 2 decades of listening to other people's contradicting stories I finally decided to hop on the car (alternative options such as fly + car hire + .... seemed well outside of my budget) and find out what it really is.

Like many others I happened to live on the east coast and had to allow for 1 week driving (return, driving alone), 3 drums of petrol and topped-up credit card. The roads are OK and the drive was fun. The desert is boring and monotonous but at least easy to steer ... Please remember ? stay safe! Just hundred meters from the road, hidden behind the bushes we found several stolen & torched cars! The Wolf Creek film is a grim warning to those who forget about the dark side of our convict origins...

If you can, time your arrival for the sunset (if you're lucky to get a good one) ? the rock is really impressive in red!

$25 gets you 3 days access to the park, and you follow the crowds into the stylish cultural centre (I didn't forget about the information centre ? there is none...) Besides some astronomically priced souvenirs/aboriginal art, boomerangs & the likes, the rest of the building is devoted to stories. Unless you are expert stone-age historian it is very unlikely that you'll get any sense or wisdom out, nor you'll be able to read, memorize or pronounce any of the names...

The best thing about the centre is that it has TOILETS (please note - they are of non-aboriginal origin)! You may laugh at me, but they are the only ones in the park (except for the Olga's ones which are about 40 km away). If you think that you can do it in the bush (after several hours walking or climbing) ? think twice! The walks are heavily patrolled by an army of rangers, not to mention the crowds of other tourists desperately looking for the same thing! Before you decide to hop over the fence and disobey the hundreds of warning signs at least make sure that the site is not sacred (most of them are) and not already an excrement minefield...

True to his explorer genes my son happily ignored the signs and climbed on one of the so called sacred sites ? a rock feature about 200 m above the track. After a while he came back laughing... He discovered some mysterious artifacts: a broken beer bottle, used condom & bikini... No carbon dating was necessary.

If you are serious law-obeying tourist ? please leave your CAMERA in the car (never leave any valuables anywhere else in Aus.). Huge areas of the rock are declared sacred and penalties for photographing such areas ($5000 or 6000) can make you broke in no time.

The same rule shall apply to your climbing BOOTS ? the climb to the top is seriously discouraged and frequently banned for a range of often ridiculous excuses/conditions (e.g. high winds or temperatures at the summit where there is obviously no anemometer or even a simple thermometer). Failure to comply with the ban shall get you another $5500 fine... SAFETY is very convenient excuse, although the climb to the top is not a big deal for any fit person (I'm 53 and did it "hands-free" ? this is no use of hands or chain). Please note ? this is only so during the (southern) winter months ? I wouldn't advice anyone to go there any other time!

If you're lucky to win the obstacle race and make it to the top ? the Olga's views aren't too bad and there is a lot to explore off the marked path. We spent a whole day discovering heaps of interesting plants, herbs, animals, birds, bugs, holes, mini-caves, views, waterholes, crevices, rocks, etc. Believe it or not my son swam into some of the waterholes ? depths can be more than 2 m. but the water is quite cold!

If you take your binoculars/zoom lenses and go to the far end you may see some real/contemporary aboriginal culture not mentioned in the cultural centre or even marked on the tourist map. This is Mutitjulu ? the aboriginal settlement right next to the rock. Do not waste your time trying to see it any closer ? tourists are not allowed (another $1000 fine). If you think you may get a permit ? prepare yourself for a fair bit of writing, 4-6 weeks waiting and 99+% chance of SORRY answer... This seems to be the modern Australian version of apartheid...
The glamorized aboriginal culture described in the cultural centre and so many other places around this country doesn't seem to fit the reality we are not allowed to see just a few kilometers away...

So, what are our options?

Have a 3 hour walk around the base (it is not bad but there isn't much else to do now) and then get back home trying to work out why the aboriginal culture or this park never stepped out of the stone age? (think of superstition and isolation)

Or make a real National (as opposed to the current aboriginal) park & attraction where millions of people from all over the world can worship &/or enjoy whatever they like - nature, Australian (aboriginal & other) culture, lifestyle and have serious fun.
How about removing all ridiculous signs & bans, allowing free access, camping, hiking, photography and so much else. Building tourist facilities such as chair lift or tube (so everyone can get on the top), toilets, shades & shelters, climbing, abseiling, hang & paragliding sites, mountain/BMX bike tracks, water slide, roller coaster / toboggan rides, kid's playground, mini/desert open range zoo, etc. None of these shall spoil the natural beauty or endanger the rock in any way (well, not more than most other national parks) Would such option bring much more visitors & joy, and much less disappointment? How good such modern park would be for our struggling tourist industry?

What you think?

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Uluru: Climb or not

by Ross
(Anchorage, Alaska USA)

No, I would't "march into a Buddhist temple in shorts and hiking boots because the monks hadn't pressured "me" not to". But I certainly would do so dressed appropriately while conducting myself in a respectful manner!

No I wouldn't "walk up to the altar rail in an English cathedral to take a flash photo of the communicants", but, again, I would visit the cathedral.

The analogies are inappropriate. With Uluru it's all or nothing in a sense. Isn't there a way in which visitors could visibly demonstrate their respect yet still make the climb? Should there be? What might it be?

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Uluru: a controversial place

by Florent
(Paris)

We only spent one day and half in Uluru area, and even if it was a bit short we really enjoyed it.

We didn't climb it, we was hesitating with all the issues, and finally we didn't take the time to do it. We walked half the way around, and it was really beautiful, the colors, plants, and the high of the rock itself! I don't regret the climb: you don't need to be at the top of everything to discover its beauty. If you choose to do it, please be respectful, as you would be in a religious place.

The other day we made the walk around the Olgas, and it really worths it! The place is really beautiful, it is perfect to enjoy nature. I think this is more exciting than climbing the Rock ;) The walk is a bit long, and sometimes it's hot so bring some water.

I reckon, if you don't climb Uluru and don't go anywhere else, you may be disappointed, especially if you like big attractions and bitumen everywhere. But if you can enjoy the colors changing on the Rock during sunset (it's really impressive), walking with the feeling you almost alone in this park and the few animals you meet (we find a camel herd beside the road), then you will enjoy this experience :)

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The Uluru summit is fantastic

by Peter
(Victoria)

Climbing to the top of Ayers Rock was one of the most amazing and profound experiences of my life. It ranks with being on glaciers and active volcanoes.

It is the feeling of immense age and geologic power. God's power. (I am not religious zealot. I attend no formal Church. Only nature.)

Ayers Rock "talks" to you. Talks to your soul. The silence. The breeze. The age. The colours (Ayers Rock is actually grey, only the thinnest outside layer is red).The variety of sounds the different rock layers make when you walk on them. The pattens in the rock. The layers of age we cannot comprehend. The plants and the waterholes. The shrimp that occur only on Ayers Rock. The birds.

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